Sunday, 3 July 2016

Wedding veil in 1850

we found some veils in the Victoria and Albert museum. to compare

Wedding veil 
Place of origin:
Brussels, Belgium (made) 
Date:
1850-1860 (made) 
Artist/Maker:
Unknown(production) 
Materials and Techniques:
Needle lace and bobbin lace worked in linen thread 
Credit Line:
Given by Mrs R. Marchard and Mrs Aronson 
Museum number:
T.739-1974 
Gallery location:
Fashion, room 40, case CA5 
This highly fashionable veil or shawl combines both handmade needle lace and bobbin lace motifs.
The market for all qualities of lace grew in the mid 19th century. 
Handmade lace was a status symbol that demonstrated wealth and position. 
In the 1850s and 1860s people began to spend large quantities on luxury lace as they had done in the 18th century. 
Silk lace and embroidered nets were fashionable in the early years of the 19th century. 
By the 1840s delicate but richly patterned Brussels lace had become fashionable again. Manufacturers made great efforts to improve and expand the industry to meet demand. 
Lace schools opened, and producers commissioned new designs from Paris. 
By the mid 1840s, Brussels was again the leading centre for fashion lace. 
Handmade net remained fashionable until the 1850s, when this piece was made. 

and another one 


Wedding veil 
Place of origin:
Honiton, England (made) 
Date:
mid 19th century (made) 
Artist/Maker:
Unknown (production) 
Materials and Techniques:
Bobbin lace applied to machine-made net 
Credit Line:
Given by Miss O. Matthews 
Museum number:
T.110-1968 
Gallery location:
In Storage 
Physical description
Large square wedding veil of machine-made net applied with Honiton bobbin lace. 
Border of curving floral sprays and extended at each corner into the middle of the veil. 
The centre is scattered with small sprigs.
Place of Origin
Honiton, England (made)
Date
mid 19th century (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Bobbin lace applied to machine-made net
Dimensions
Length: 213.4 cm, Width: 213.4 cm
Descriptive line
Square wedding veil of machine-made net applied with bobbin lace, Honiton, mid 19th century
Exhibition History
Unveiled: 200 years of wedding glamour from the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. (Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa Tongarewa, Wellington 17/12/2011-22/04/2012)

The White Wedding Dress: 200 Years of Wedding Fashions (Bendigo Art Gallery 01/08/2011-06/11/2011)
Labels and date

Lace veil with pea-pods
Devon, England
About 1850


When Queen Victoria wed, she wore English lace to promote British manufacture. 
She encouraged other brides to do the same. 
The pattern of this Honiton lace veil includes pea-pods, which are symbols of fruitfulness and happiness. 
The bride would have worn the veil attached to the back of her head, not over her face, a fashion which came later.
Honiton appliqué lace
Given by Miss O. Matthews
V&A: T.110-1968 [2011]
Materials
Net (textile); Bobbin lace
Techniques
Lace making 

and ours to compare 


It's an application of muslin couched onto machine made lace.
Lace like this was made in Carrickmacross, Ireland 

 experts think it is of another origin and have dated it to about 1840 /1850 ish and possibly Continental, possibly even Brussels. 
pomegranate

Friday, 1 July 2016

The wedding and the lace


The wedding
First we have to know how a wedding took place in 1852 to find out more about the lace .


Could it really have been worn by Frances Elisabeth Samworth ?
On her weddingday when she married Jerome Nicholas Vlieland junior.
What did they do on their wedding day , what did they eat and drink.?

We found a page about the Victorian wedding etiquette in 1852.
Which explains everything there is to know.
For all illustrations you have to see the original site
THE ETIQUETTE OF THE WEDDING.


FIXING THE DAY, AND ITS CONSEQUENCES.


WHEN the course of true love has run smooth for a brief or a long period, as the circumstances of the case may require, the fulness of time will arrive for “FIXING THE DAY.” It is the gentleman’s province to press his suit for the earliest possible opportunity, but it is the lady’s express privilege to fix the exact day. Strange as it may seem, it is necessary for the gentleman to act deliberately on this occasion—having first considered where it will be convenient to spend the honeymoon—inasmuch as this will depend on the season of the wedding. No one would spend a winter-honeymoon in the country, or make a summer bridal-excursion to Paris.

SETTLEMENTS.

THESE are matters that must be attended to where there is property on either side; and it behoves the intending bridegroom to take care there is no delay. An attorney may be hurried at the last moment, and Heaven have pity on the poor clerks who have to engross the deeds ; but the counsel on both sides have no care for either party, and read over a marriage-settlement with as much deliberation, and make as many perplexing objections, as if it were the lease of a house in Crutched Friars, or as if the Hon. Charles John Mountjoy Elphinstone Stuart were making, upon parchment, a perpetual declaration of war against the person and interests, in futuro and in perpetuum, of the Lady Valentine De Courcy Montrevor. An occasional morning call in the square of Lincoln’s Inn, at this period, is recommended as a necessary, though disagreeable variety with the evening visit in that of Belgravia. On the business part of this matter, it is not the privilege of our work to dilate, but we may be permitted to suggest that two-thirds of the lady’s property should invariably be settled on herself; and that where the bridegroom has no property wherewith to endow his wife, beyond his professional prospects, it should be made a sine qua non that he should insure his life in her favour previous to marriage.

HOW TO BE MARRIED.

BY this time the gentleman will have made up his mind in what particular method he will be married—a matter, however, which is generally settled for him by his position in life, or his means. He has, indeed, his choice, to a certain extent, of marriage by banns, by licence, by special licence, or before the Registrar; but woe betide the unlucky wight who proposes the last method, either to a young lady or her parents : let him be careful to do so on the ground-floor.


MARRIAGE BY BANNS.


FOR this purpose, notice must be given to the clerk of the parish, or of the district church. The names of the two parties must be written down in full, with their conditions, and the parishes in which they reside—as, “Between Nicholas Rowe, of the parish of St. Ann‘s, bachelor (or widower, as the case may be), and Mary Bone, of the parish of St. Ann’s, spinster (or widow, as the case may be).” No mention of the lady or gentleman’s age is required. Where the lady and gentleman are of different parishes, the banns must be published in each, and a certificate of their publication in the one furnished to the clergyman who may marry the parties in the church of the other parish.


It seems singular, though it is the fact, that no evidence of consent by either party is necessary to this “putting up of the banns,” as it is denominated ; indeed the publication of the banns is not unfrequently the first rural declaration of attachment, so that the blushing village maiden sometimes finds herself announced as a bride in posse, before she has received any declaration in case. A slighted swain in Leicestershire lately put himself up three times, until he found, in the last, a spinster who would not “forbid the banns” ! The clerk receives his fee of two shillings, and makes no further inquiries—may, more, is prepared, if required, to provide the necessary fathers on each side, in the respectable persons of himself and the sexton,-—the venerable pew-opener being also ready, on her part, to perpetrate the duties of a bridesmaid. It is curious to observe, that so delicate are parish clerks in sparing the blushing sensitiveness of the timid votaries of Hymen, that their door is always opened by a young maiden, ‘who, at a glance, relieves all fears by saying, “You want to put up the banns?”


The banns must be publicly read on three Sundays in the church, after which, on the Monday following, if they so choose, the happy pair may be “made one.” It is usual to give a notice of one day previous to the clerk, but this is not legally necessary, —-it being the care of the Church, as well as the province of the Law, to throw as few impediments as possible in the way of marriage, of which the one main fact of a consent to live together, declared publicly before relatives, friends, and neighbours, assembled together (and afterwards, as it were by legal deduction, before witnesses), is the sole, whole, essential, and constituent element. Marriage by banns, except in the country districts, is usually confined to the humbler classes of society. This is to be regretted, inasmuch as it is a more deliberate and solemn declaration, and leaves the ceremony less open to suddenness, contrivance, or fraud. A marriage by banns, it is understood, can never be set aside by the after discovery of deception or concealment (as of residence, or even names) on either side. The fees of a marriage by banns vary from eleven shillings and sixpence to thirteen shillings and sixpence and fifteen shillings and sixpence, according to the parish or district where the marriage may take place.


HOURS IN WHICH MARRIAGES MAY BE CELEBRATED.


ALL marriages at church must be celebrated within canonical hours—that is, between the hours of eight and twelve, except in the case of special licence, when the marriage may be celebrated at any hour, or at any “meet and proper place.”



MARRIAGE BY SPECIAL LICENCE.

BY the Statute of 23 Hen. VIII., the Archbishop of Canterbury has power to grant Special Licences; but in a certain sense these are limited. His Grace restricts his authority to Peers and Peeresses in their own right, to their sons and daughters, to Dowager Peeresses, to Privy Councillors, to Judges of the Courts at Westminster, to Baronets and Knights, and to Members of Parliament ; and by an order of a former Prelate, to no other person is a special licence to be given, unless they allege very strong and weighty reasons for such indulgence, arising from particular circumstances of the case, and they must prove the truth of the same to the satisfaction of the Archbishop.

The application for a special licence is to be made to his Grace through the proctor of the parties, who, having first ascertained names and particulars, will wait upon his Grace for his fiat.

In the case where the parties applying do not rank within the restricted indulgences, a personal interview should be sought, or a letter of introduction to his Grace should be obtained, containing the reasons for wishing the favour granted. Should his Grace grant his fiat, in either case the gentleman attends his proctor to make the usual affidavit, that there is no impediment to the marriage—the same as in an ordinary licence. The terms of a special licence run thus :—

JOHN Bran, by Divine Providence Archbishop of Canterbury, Primate of all England, and Metropolitan, by an Act of Parliament lawfully empowered. To our well-beloved in Christ, A B, of the parish of , a bachelor, and C D, of the parish of , a spinster, Health.—


WHEREAS it is alleged ye have purposed to proceed to the solemnization of a true, pure, and lawful matrimony (if either minors, by and with the consent of &c.), earnestly desiring the same to be solemnized with all the speed that may be; that such your reasonable desires may the more readily take due effect, we, for certain causes us hereunto especially moving, do, so far as in us lies, and the laws of this realm allow, by these presents graciously give and grant our LICENCE AND FACULTY, as well to you the parties contracting, as to all Christian people willing to be present at the solemnization of the said marriage, to celebrate and solemnize such marriage between you the said contracting parties, at any time, and in any church or chapel, or other meet and convenient place, by any Bishop of this realm, or by the Rector, Vicar, Curate, or Chaplain of such church or chapel, or by any other Minister in Holy Orders of the Church of England, provided there be no lawful let or impediment to hinder the said marriage. Given under the seal of our Office of Faculties at Doctors’ Commons, &c.,day of , 1851


The expense of a special licence is about twenty-eight or thirty guineas—whereas that of an ordinary licence is but two guineas and a half; or three guineas where the gentleman or lady are minors.

MARRIAGE BY LICENCE.

AN ordinary Marriage Licence is to be obtained at the Faculty Registry, or Vicar-General’s Office, or Diocesan Registry Office of the Archbishops or Bishops, either in the country, or at Doctors’ Commons, or by applying to a proctor. A licence from Doctors’ Commons, unlike others, however, is available throughout the whole of England.

As a saving of trouble and expense may be an object, a hint upon this point, as given by Mr. Charles Dickens, in one of his publications, may be perhaps useful to persons attending Doctors’ Commons, and at the same time guard them against the annoyances and impositions of touters in that neighbourhood.

In the “Pickwick Papers,” .. Mr. Dickens gives the following dialogue between Mr. Pickwick and Sam Weller: — “ Do you know Doctors’ Commons, Sam ?” “Yes, Sir.” “Where is it?” “Paul’s Church Yard, Sir: low archway on the carriage side, bookseller’s at one corner, hotel on the other, and two porters in the middle as touts for licences.”—““Touts for licences?” said the gentleman. “Touts for licences,” replied Sam; “two coves in white aprons—touches their hats ven you walk in—‘ Licence, Sin—Licence ’ Queer sort them, and their mas’rs, too, Sir—Old Bailey proctors, and no mustake.” “ What do they do?” inquired the gentleman. “Do you, Sir!” * * *
It will be sufficient for our purpose to relate, that, escaping the snares of the dragons in white aprons, who guard the entrance to that enchanted region, he reached the Vicar-General’s Office in Bell Yard, Doctors’ Commons, in safety, and having procured a highly flattering address on parchment—from the Archbishop of Canterbury, to his “ trusty and well-beloved Alfred Jingle and Rachael Wardle greeting”—he carefully deposited the mystic document in his pocket, and retraced his steps in triumph to the Borough.”

The gentleman or lady (as either may attend), before applying for an ordinary marriage licence, should ascertain in what parish or district they both are residing—the church of such parish or district being the church in which the marriage should be celebrated; and either the gentleman or lady must have had his or her usual abode therein, fifteen days before application is made for the licence, as the following form, to be made on oath, sets forth :—

This affidavit having been completed, the licence is then made out. It runs thus :—

JOHN BIRD, by Divine Providence, Archbishop of Canterbury, Primate of all England, and Metropolitan. To our well-beloved in Christ,

Grace and Health—WHEREAS ye are, as it is alleged, resolved to proceed to the solemnization of true and lawful matrimony, and that you greatly desire that the same may be solemnized in the face of the Church: We being willing that these your honest desires may the more speedily obtain a due effect, and to the end therefore that this marriage may be publicly and lawfully solemnized in the church of by the Rector, Vicar, or Curate thereof, without the publication or proclamation of the bans of matrimony, provided there shall appear no impediment of kindred or alliance, or of any other lawful cause, nor any suit commenced in any Ecclesiastical Court, to bar or hinder the proceeding of the said matrimony, according to the tenor of this licence: And likewise, That the celebration of this marriage be had and done publicly in , the aforesaid church , between the hours of eight and twelve in the forenoon. We, for lawful causes, graciously grant this our LICENCE AND FACULTY, as well to you the parties contracting, as to the Rector, Vicar, Curate, or Minister, of , the aforesaid , who is designed to solemnize the marriage between you, in the manner and form above specified, according to the rites of the Book of Common Prayer, set forth for that purpose, by the authority of Parliament. Given under the seal of our VICAR- GENERAL, this day of , in the Year of Our Lord one thousand eight hundred and fifty-one, and in the fourth year of our translation.


The licence remains in force for three months only; and the copy received by the person applying for it is left in the hands of the clergyman who marries the parties, it being his authority for so doing. In case either party is a minor, the age must be stated, and the consent of the parents or guardians authorized to give such consent, must be sworn to by the gentleman or lady applying for the licence. The following are the persons having legal authority to give their consent in case of minority:—lst, the father; if dead—2nd, the guardians, if any appointed by his will; if none—3rd, the mother, if unmarried; if dead or married —4th, the guardians appointed by Chancery. If none of the foregoing persons exist, then the marriage may be legally solemnized, without any consent whatever. The following are the official forms for this purpose :—

CONSENTS IN CASE OF MINORS.
Consent of Father.
By and with the consent of A B, the natural and lawful father of B B, the minor aforesaid.
Guardian Testamentary.
By and with the consent of A B, the guardian of the person of the said C D, the minor aforesaid, lawfully appointed in and by the last will and testament of D D, deceased, his [or her] natural and lawful father.

Mother.
By and with the consent of A B, the natural and lawful mother of B B, the minor aforesaid, his [or her] father being dead, and he [or she] having no guardian of his [or her] person lawfully appointed. and his [or her] said mother being unmarried.
Guardian appointed by the Court of Chancery.
By and with the consent of A .B, the guardian of the person of the said C D, appointed by the High Court of Chancery, and having authority to consent to his [or her] marriage, his [or her] father being dead, and he [or she] having no guardian of his [or her] person, otherwise lawfully appointed, or mother living and unmarried.
No Father, Testamentary Guardian, Mother, or Guardian appointed by the Court of Chancery.

That he [or she] the said A B, hath no father living, or guardian of his [or her] person, lawfully appointed, or mother living and unmarried, or guardian of his [or her] person appointed by the High Court of Chancery, and having authority to consent to the aforesaid marriage.

The previous remarks have reference only to licences for marriages about to be solemnized according to the laws of the Church of England.

MARRIAGE OF ROMAN—CATHOLICS OR DISSENTERS BY LICENCE.
BY the Statute 6 and 7 William IV., 17 Aug. 1836, Roman-catholics and Dissenters who may wish to be married in a church or chapel belonging to their own denomination, can obtain a licence for that purpose from the Superintendent Registrar of the district in which one of the parties reside, after giving notice thereof a week previous to the same officer: the expense of the licence is 3l. 12s. 6d.

MARRIAGE BEFORE THE REGISTRAR.

SHOULD the parties wish to avoid the expense of a licence, they can do so by giving three weeks’ notice to the same officcer,—which notice is affixed in his office, and read before the proper officers when assembled,——at the expiration of that time, then the marriage may be solemnized in any place which is licensed, within their district. The Registrar of Marriages of such district must have notice of, and attend every such marriage. The fee due to the Registrar of Marriages for attending the ceremony, and registering the marriage (by licence) is 10s., and for certificate 2s. 6d,; and without a licence 5.s., and certificate 2s. 6d.

Marriages also by the above-mentioned Act of Parliament, may, upon due notice, be celebrated in the office of the Superintendent Registrar, with or without licence—or with or without any religious ceremony; but the following declarations which are prescribed by the Act must be made at all marriages, in some part of the ceremony, either religious or otherwise, in the presence of the Registrar and two witnesses—viz., “I do solemnly declare, that I know not of any lawful impediment why I, A B, may not be joined in matrimony to C D ;” and each of the parties shall also say to each other—“ I call upon these persons here present, to witness that I, A B, do take thee, C D, to be my lawful wedded wife”-(or husband.)

It is highly to the credit of the Christian people of this country, and an eminent proof of their deep religious feeling—that all classes of the community whatsoever have virtually repudiated these “Marriages by Act of Parliament ;” nor would we advise any fair maiden who has a regard to the comfort and respect of her after-connubial life, to “ show her spirit,” by being married in the Registrar’s back-parlour, after due proclamation by the Overseers and Poor-Law Guardians.

THE BRIDAL TROUSSEAU, AND THE WEDDING PRESENTS.

THE day being fixed for the wedding, the bride’s father now presents her with a sum of money for her trousseau, according to her rank in life. A few days previous to the wedding, the wedding presents are also made by relations and intimate friends, varying in amount and value according to their degrees of relationship and friendship—such as plate, furniture, jewellery, and articles of ornament, as well as of utility to the newly-married lady in her future station.

DUTY OF AN INTENDED BRIDEGROOM.

THE bridegroom, now, at last, must come out of the bright halo of his happiness, into the cold, grey, actual daylight of the world of business. He must look after the house which he intends for his future home. He must, also, if engaged in business avocations, make arrangements for a month’s absence ; in fact, bring together all matters into a focus, so as to be immediately and readily manageable when he becomes once more grave enough to take the reins himself. He must also burn all his bachelor letters, and part with, it may be, some few of his bachelor connexions,—bid a long farewell to all bachelor friends, and generally communicate, as it were en passant, to all his acquaintances, the close approach of so important a change in his condition. Not to do this might hereafter lead to inconvenience. Many an illustration, both humorous and painful, of the dilemmas of the bachelor-husband, presses upon our pen; but the mere suggestion will waken up in the minds of our married readers—if such there be—many a strange scene of the comedy of life. We must, however, proceed to matters of more immediate interest, for we are now in the very whirl and vortex of a wedding.

BUYING THE RING, AND ITS CONSEQUENCES.

IT is the gentleman’s business to buy the ring—and he must be sure not to forget it. Such things have happened. The ring should be, we need not say, of the very purest gold, but very thick—a return to the old fashion of the common people. There are three reasons for this ; first, that it may not break— a source of great trouble to the young wife ; secondly, that it may not slip off the finger without being missed—few husbands being pleased to hear that their wives have lost their wedding rings; and thirdly, that it may last out the life-time of the loving recipient, even should that life be protracted to the extreme extent. To get at the right size required, is a pretty part of the delicate mysteries of young love ; but should the youth be too modest, or accident have intervened, a not unusual method is to get a sister of your fair one to lend you one of the lady’s rings. By this, the jeweller will select the proper size. Take care it be not too large. Some audacious individuals, rendered hold by their favoured position, have been even known presumptuously to try the ring on the patient finger of the much enduring fair one; and, curiously enough, it has never yet happened that the ring has been refused, or sent back to be changed. We remember a singular coincidence in an Irish young gentleman of fashion, who was so easily pleased, as never to return a new coat to his tailor to be altered, for fear it should not come back again.

Having bought the ring—which he will receive wrapt up in a piece of silver paper—the young lover must now put it into the left-hand corner of his right-hand waistcoat-pocket (there is a reason for this direction), and never part with it until he takes it out in the church, during the wedding ceremony, except on an occasion to be shortly mentioned, when he must entrust it to the keeping of the bridesmaid.

In ancient days it appears, by the “ Salisbury Manual,” that there was a form of “ Blessing the Wedding Ring,” previous to the wedding day ; and in those times the priest, previous to the ring being put on, always made careful inquiry whether it had been duly blessed? It would seem to be the wish of certain clergymen, who have of late brought back into use many ceremonial Observances that had fallen into desuetude, to revive this ancient custom.

WHO IS TO BE ASKED TO THE WEDDING.

THE wedding should take place at the house of the bride’s parents or guardians. The parties who must be asked, are the father and mother of the gentleman, the brothers and sisters (their wives and husbands also, if married), and the immediate relations and favoured friends of both parties. Old family friends on the bride’s side should also receive invitations,—the rationale, or original intention of this wedding assemblage, being to give publicity to the fact, that the bride is leaving her paternal home with the consent and approbation of her parents.

On this occasion, the bridegroom has the privilege of asking any friends he may choose to the wedding, but no friend has a right to feel affronted at not being invited, since, were all the friends on either side assembled, the wedding breakfast would be a crowded reception, rather than an impressive ceremonial. It is, however, considered a matter of friendly attention in those who cannot be invited, to be present at the ceremony in the church.

WHO SHOULD BE BRIDESMAIDS.
THE bridesmaids are usually the unmarried sisters of the bride; but it is an anomaly for an elder sister to perform this function. The pleasing novelty in late years, of an addition to the number of bridesmaids,—varying from two to eight and sometimes sixteen,——has added greatly to the interest of weddings, the bride being thus enabled to diffuse a portion of her own happiness amongst the intimate friends of her young heart’s choosing. One lady is always appointed principal bridesmaid, and has the bride in her charge ; it is also her duty to take care that the other bridesmaids have the wedding favours in readiness. On the second bridesmaid devolves, with her principal, the duty of sending out the cards; and on the third bridesmaid, in conjunction with the remaining beauties of her choir, the onerous office of attending to certain ministrations and mysteries connected with the wedding cake.

OF THE BRIDEGROOMSMEN.
It behoves a bridegroom to be exceedingly particular in the selection of the friends who, as his bridegroomsmen, are to be his companions and assistants throughout his wedding day. Their number is limited to that of the bridesmaids, one for each. It is unnecessary to say that very much of the pleasure of the day, except to the two parties mainly concerned, will depend on their proper mating. Young and unmarried they must be, handsome they should be, good humoured they cannot fail to be, and well dressed they ought to be. Let the bridegroom diligently examine his store of friends, and select the “prettiest” and the pleasantest fellows for his own train. The principal bridegroomsman has, for the day, a special charge of the bridegroom, and the last warning we would give him is, to take care that, when the bridegroom puts on his wedding waistcoat, he does not omit to take the wedding-ring out of the pocket of the one which he donned on the previous night, and to put it into the left-hand corner of the right-hand pocket. The dress of a bridegroomsman should be light and elegant; a dress coat should be worn.

THE DAY BEFORE THE WEDDING.
THE bride now sends white gloves, wrapped in white paper and tied with white ribbon, to each of the bridesmaids.
The bridegroom does the same to each of the bridegroomsmen.

One portion of wedding cake is cut into small oblong pieces, and passed by the bridesmaids through the wedding ring, which is delivered into their charge for this purpose. The pieces of cake are afterwards put up in ornamental paper, generally pink or white enamelled, and tied with bows of silvered paper.

The bridegroomsman on this day takes care that due notice has been sent to the clerk of the parish where the ceremony is to take place, so that the church may be got ready, and the clergyman be in attendance.

The bridegroomsman should also now make arrangements for the bells being rung after the ceremony, the sentiment of this being that it is the husband that must call on all the neighbours to rejoice with him on his receiving his wife, and not the lady’s father on her going from his house.

The bridegroom furnishes to the bridesmaids his list for “The Cards” to he sent to his friends; of which hereafter.
On the evening of this day the wedding breakfast should be ornamented and spread out, as far as possible, in the principal apartment.

The bridesmaids on this evening also prepare the wedding favours, which are put up in a box ready to be conveyed to the church in the morning.

THE WEDDING MORNING.
THE parties being assembled in the parlour of the mansion (the wedding breakfast being usually spread in the drawing-room), the happy cortége should proceed to the church as follows :—
In the first carriage, the principal bridesmaid and bridegroomsman.
In the second carriage, the second bridesmaid and the bridegroom‘s mother.
Other carriages with bridesmaids and friends, the carriages of the bridesmaids taking precedence. In the last carriage the bride and her father.

HOW THE BRIDE SHOULD BE DRESSED.

A BRIDE’S costume should be white, or as close as possible to it. Fawn colour, grey, and lavender are entirely out of fashion. It is considered more stylish to go without a bonnet, wearing a wreath of orange blossoms and a Chantilly veil. This, however, is entirely a matter of taste, but whether or not wearing a bonnet, the bride must always wear a veil.



HOW THE BRIDEGROOM SHOULD BE DRESSED.

IT is no longer in good taste for a gentleman to be married in a black coat ; a blue coat, light grey trousers, white satin or silk waistcoat, ornamental tie, and white (not primrose-coloured) gloves, form the usual costume of a bridegroom according to present usage.

HOW THE BRIDESMAIDS SHOULD BE DRESSED.

THE bridesmaids dress generally in pairs, each two alike, but sometimes all wear a similar costume. Pink and light blue, with white pardessus or mantelets, or white, with pink or blue, are admissible colours. The bonnets, of course, must be white, in which marabout feathers may be worn. The whole costume of a bridesmaid should have a very light effect, and the tout ensemble of this fair bevy should be constituted in style and colour so as to look well by the side of and about the bride. It should be as the depth of colouring in the background of a sun-lit picture, helping to throw into the foreground the dress of the bride, and make her prominent, as the principal person in the tableau.

AT THE CHURCH.
THE bridegroom receives the bride in the vestry, where he must take care to have arrived some time previously to the hour appointed.

THE PROCESSION TO THE ALTAR.

THE father of the bride generally advances with her from the vestry to the altar, followed immediately by the bridesmaids. The father of the bridegroom, if present, gives his arm to the bride’s mother if she be present, as is now usual at fashionable weddings, and goes next to the bridesmaids. The friends who have come with the wedding party proceed next in succession.

The bridegroom with his bridegroomsmen are in readiness to meet the bride at the altar, the bridegroom standing at the left hand of the clergyman, in the centre before the altar rails.

In some cases we have seen the bridegroom offer the bride his left arm to lead her to the altar, but this is incorrect. In this case, the whole order of the procession to the altar becomes inverted, and is arranged as follows :—

The father, and the mother of the bride, if present, or if she be not, the mother of the gentleman, if present, as she should be, or if she be not there, one of the oldest female relations or most distinguished female friend of the bride’s family, now lead the way towards the altar from the vestry.

The friends who have come with the wedding party follow next in succession.

Then come the bridesmaids, each pairing with one of the bridegroomsmen, and taking his left arm, the principal bridesmaid and principal bridegroomsman walk last, to be nearest to the bride and bridegroom.

The bridegroom, having offered his left arm to the bride, conducts her up the centre aisle of the church to the altar. The parties in advance file to the right and left of the altar, leaving the bride and bridegroom in the centre.
THE CEREMONY.

THE bridegroom stands at the right hand of the bride. The father stands just behind her, so as to be in readiness to give her hand at the proper moment to the bridegroom. The principal bridesmaid stands on the left of the bride, ready to take off the bride’s glove, which she keeps as a perquisite and prize of her office.

It was ordered by the old rubrics that the woman should have her hand covered when presented by father or friend to the priest for marriage, if she were a widow, one of the many points by which the church distinguished second marriages. A piece of silver and a piece of gold were also laid with the wedding-ring upon the priest’s book (where the cross would be on the cover), in token of dower to the wife.
THE WORDS “I WILL,”
are to be pronounced distinctly and audibly by both parties, such being the all-important part of the ceremony as respects themselves; the public delivery before the priest, by the father, of his daughter to the bridegroom, being an evidence of his assent, the silence which follows the inquiry for “cause or just impediment” testifying that of society in general; and the “I will” being the declaration of the bride and bridegroom that they are voluntary parties to their holy union in marriage.

THE WORDS “HONOUR AND OBEY”
must also be distinctly spoken by the bride. They constitute an essential part of the obligation and contract of matrimony on her part. It may not be amiss to inform our fair readers that on the marriage of our Gracious Sovereign Queen Victoria to H.R.H. Prince Albert, her Majesty carefully and most judiciously emphasised these words, thereby intentionally manifesting that though a Queen in station, yet in her wedded and private life she sought no other right and privilege, and could assert no bolder claim than the humblest village matron in her dominions.

This obedience on the part of the wife, concerning which there is oftentimes much curious questioning amongst ladies old and young, while yet unmarried, is thus finely defined by Jeremy Taylor :-—“It is a voluntary cession that is required; such a cession as must be without coercion and violence on his part, but upon fair inducements and reasonableness in the thing, and out of love and honour on her part. When God commands us to love him, he means we should obey him. “This is love, that ye keep my commandments; and if ye love me,” (says the Lord,) “ keep my commandments.” Now as Christ is to the Church, so is man to the wife; and, therefore, obedience is the best instance of her love ; for it proclaims her submission, her humility, her opinion of his wisdom, his pre-eminence in the family, the right of his privilege, and the injunction imposed by God upon her sex, that although in sorrow she bring forth children, yet with love and choice she should obey. The man’s authority is love, and the woman’s love is obedience. “It is modesty to advance and highly to honour them who have honoured us by making us the companions of their dearest excellencies; for the woman that went before the man in the way of death is commanded to follow him in the way of love ; and that makes the society to be perfect, and the union profitable, and the harmony complete.”

THE RING.
THE rubric tells us “the man shall give unto the woman a ring, laying the same upon the book with the accustomed duty to the priest and clerk.” This is, however, not now done, it being usual to pay the fees in the vestry; but to insure the presence of the ring, a caution by no means unnecessary, and also in some measure to sanctify it, it is asked for by the clerk previous to the commencement of the ceremony, who advises it to he placed upon the book. We pity the unfortunate bridegroom who at this moment cannot, by at once inserting his left hand (the one farthest from the bride) into the left-hand corner (the one most ready to his finger and thumb) of his right- hand (the right being the only hand he is supposed to have at liberty) waistcoat pocket, pull out the silver-paper enveloped ring. Imagine the not finding it there,—the first surprise, the immediate anxiety, as the right-hand pocket is rummaged,—the blank look, as he follows this by the discovery that his nether garments have no pockets whatsoever, not even a watch-fob, where it may lie perdue in a corner. Amid the suppressed giggle of the bridesmaid, the half-pitying, half-disconcerted look of the bride herself, at such a palpable carelessness and forgetfulness thus publicly proved before all her friends, on the part of her intended, and the hardly repressed disapprobation of the numerous circle around, he fumbles in coat pockets, and turns them inside-out ! No ring ! A further search causes great confusion and sympathy, until we have known it to go so far as the pulling off the bridegroom’s boots! lest the ring may have slipped down into one of them in his judicious efforts to place it in his waistcoat-pocket. In default of the ring, the wedding ring of the mother may be used; the application of the key of the church door is traditionary in this absurd dilemma; and in country churches a straw twisted into a circle has been known to supply the place of the orthodox hoop of gold.

AFTER THE CEREMONY,

the clergyman usually shakes hands with the bride and bridegroom, and the bride’s father and mother, and a general congratulation ensues.

ASSISTANT CLERGYMEN.

THE clergyman of the church is invariably invited to attend, although the ceremony may be, in fact, performed by some friend of the bride or bridegroom. This is called “assisting ;” other clergymen who may attend in addition, as is sometimes the case, are said also to “assist.” But as much ridicule has fallen upon the custom, and the parties who have adopted it, and as the expression is considered an affectation, the fashion for its use has abated, and it is no longer usual to mention the names of any other clergymen than that of the one who performs the ceremony, and the clergyman of the church, who should be present, whether invited or not. It is, indeed, his duty to attend, and he must insist on so doing, inasmuch as the entry of the marriage in the parish register is supposed to be made under his sanction and authority. It should not be forgotten that the presence of an “assistant clergyman” entails the doubling of the fees.

IN CASES OF DIFFERENT RELIGIONS.

WHERE the bride and bridegroom are of different religions, the marriage is usually celebrated in the church of that communion to which the husband belongs ; the second celebration should immediately follow, and upon the same day. It is, however, regarded as more deferential to the bride’s feelings that the first ceremony should be performed in her own communion. There is a notion prevalent, that in the case of a marriage between Roman Catholics and Protestants, the ceremony must necessarily be first performed in a Protestant church. This is erroneous—the position of the marriage, whether first or last, is of no legal consequence, so long as it takes place on the same day.

THE RETURN TO THE VESTRY.
THE bride is led by the bridegroom. The bridesmaids and bridegroomsmen follow, the principals of each taking the lead. Then the father of the bride, followed by the father and mother of the bridegroom, and the rest of the company.

THE REGISTRY OF THE MARRIAGE.

THE husband signs first ; then the bride-wife, for the last time, in her maiden name ; then the father of the bride, and the mother, if present ; then the father and mother of the bridegroom, if present; then the bridesmaids and the bridegroomsmen ; then such of the rest of the company as may desire to be on the record as witnesses. All the names must be signed in full. The certificate of the marriage is handed to the bride, and should be preserved in her own possession, be her rank whatever it may.

THE WEDDING FAVOURS.

MEANW’HILE, outside the church, so soon as the ceremony is completed,—and not before, for it is regarded as unfortunate,——a box of the wedding favours is opened, and every servant in waiting takes care to pin one on the right side of his hat, while the coachmen, in addition, ornament the ears of their horses. Inside the church, the wedding favours are also distributed, and gay, indeed, and animated is the scene, as each bridesmaid pins on to the coat of each bridegroomsman a wedding favour which he returns by pinning one also on her shoulder. Every favour is carefully furnished with two pins for this purpose, and it is amazing to see the flutter, the smiling, and the very usual pricking of fingers, which this not unimportant duty of a wedding-bachelor and lady “in waiting” does occasion.

THE RETURN HOME.

THE bridegroom leads the bride out of the church, and the happy pair return to the house in the first carriage. The father and mother follow in the next. The rest stand not on the order of their going,” but follow in such order as they can best get out.

ETIQUETTE OF THE WEDDING BREAKFAST.

THE bride and bridegroom sit in the centre of the table, in front of the wedding-cake. The clergyman who performed the ceremony takes his place opposite to them. The top and bottom of the table are occupied by the father and mother of the bride. The principal bridesmaid sits to the left of the bride, and the principal bridegroomsman on the left of the bridegroom. It may not be unnecessary to say that it is customary for the ladies to wear their bonnets just as they came from the church. The bridesmaids cut the cake into small pieces, which are not eaten until the health of the bride is proposed. This is done by the principal old friend of the family of the bridegroom. The bridegroom returns thanks for the bride and for himself. The health of her parents is then proposed, and is followed by those of the principal personages present. After about two hours, the principal bridesmaid leads the bride out of the room as quietly as possible, so as not to disturb the party or attract attention. Shortly after -—it may be in ten minutes—the absence of the bride being noticed, the rest of the ladies retire. Then it is that the bridegroom has a few melancholy moments to bid adieu to his bachelor friends, and generally receives some hints on the subject in a short address from a bachelor friend, to which he is expected to respond. He himself now withdraws for a few moments, and returns, having made a slight addition to his toilet, in readiness for travelling.

In some recent fashionable weddings we have noticed that the bride and bridegroom do not attend the wedding breakfast, but after a slight refreshment in a private apartment, take their departure immediately on the wedding tour. But this defalcation, if we may so call it, of the dramatis personœ of the day, though considered to be in good taste, is by no means universally approved, but is the rather regarded as a coxcombical dereliction from the ancient forms of hospitality, which are more due than ever on such an occasion as a marriage.

DEPARTURE FOR THE HONEYMOON.

young bride, divested of her bridal attire, and quietly costumed for the journey, now bids farewell to her bridesmaids and lady friends. Some natural tears spring to her gentle eyes as she takes a last look at the home she is now leaving. The servants venture to crowd to her with their humble though heartfelt congratulations ; and, finally, melting, she falls weeping on her mother’s bosom. A short cough is heard, as of someone summoning up resolution. It is her father. He dare not trust his voice; but holds out his hand, gives her one kiss, and then leads her, half turning back, down the stairs and through the hall, to the door, where he delivers her to her husband; who hands her quickly into the carriage, leaps in lightly after her, waves his hand to the party, who appear crowding to the windows, half smiles at the throng about the door, then gives the word, and they are off, and started on the voyage of life!
“Anon they wander by divine converse
Into Elysium.”
Keats’ Endymion.

THE WEDDING CARDS.

The distribution of these is an important duty, which devolves on the bridesmaids, who meet for the purpose at the house of the bride’s father on the day after the wedding. The cards are two—the one having upon it the gentleman’s, and the other the lady’s name. They are furnished by the bridegroom, and printed to his order. They are placed in envelopes, sealed with white sealing-wax or silver wafers, and are all addressed some time before by the bridesmaids. The gentleman gives a list to the bridesmaids of such of his friends as he wishes to introduce to his home. This is a very important point, nor should such a list he made out without very grave consideration.

The lady generally sends cards to all whom she has been in the habit of receiving or visiting while at her father’s house. She also has thus an opportunity of dropping such acquaintanceships as she may not be desirous of continuing in her wedded life.

This point of sending the cards is one requiring great care as well as circumspection, since an omission is an affront that sometimes endures through life. To those parties whose visiting acquaintance is wished to be kept up, on the bride’s card is written “ At home” on such a day.

To send cards without an address is an intimation that the parties are not to call, except when they themselves reside, or the marriage has taken place, at a distance. In fact, the address is to denote the “At home ;” it is better, however, that the words should be put upon the cards.

ETIQUETTE AFTER THE WEDDING
EVENING AT AN INN
THE lady, at the proper period, retires to her apartment, and after having taken sufficient time for her evening toilette, directs the chambermaid to inform her husband that his apartments are ready.

A HINT FOR THE HONEYMOON.

THE honeymoon is often made uncomfortable (hear it, ye shuddering young Cupids !-—-an uncomfortable honeymoon !-——a warm winter and a cold summer are not more antagonistic to the truth of nature) by jealousy on the young husband’s part; for an expression that at another time would not be noticed, now—so carefully does he guard his newly acquired treasure—vexes and frets him, making him give way to potted expressions, which five minutes afterwards he will, by proper management on the lady’s part, be ashamed of and repent. The lady, then, in such an instance, should, instead of being irritated in her turn, or piqued, convince him, by her kind caresses, that she regrets having given him this trifling annoyance. Assuredly by such conduct the little quarrels that do ruffle some honeymoons might be escaped. We warn the lady to avoid the first quarrel, as the little temper shown on her husband’s part is only excess of fondness for herself.

THE DRESS OF THE BRIDE IN THE HONEYMOON.

SHOULD be characterized by modesty, simplicity, and neatness. The slightest approach to slatternlines in costume, even a careless curl—not to say a visible curl-paper—would be an abomination, and assuredly stand in the future memory of the shuddering husband.
THE “ AT HOME.”
ABOUT a month or five weeks after the ceremony, the bride, in the company of her husband and her bridesmaids, sits “at home,” arrayed in her wedding dress, to receive the visits of those to whom cards have been sent. The bridesmaids assist the company to the wedding-cake and wine, in which each visitor drinks the health of the bride. These reception days are generally two or three in number.

HOW A BRIDE SHOULD RECEIVE HER VISITORS.
THE wedding visitors should be received with equal politeness and cordiality, but with no greater empressementin manner than visitors on an ordinary occasion. The lady should be easy, and perfectly at home. It is unnecessary to say more, as every lady knows how to receive her guests.

RETURNING VISITS.
THE bride and her husband, or, in case he may not be able to attend her, the principal bridesmaid, —the last of whose official duties this is—return all the visits paid to them on their reception days. Those who may have called on the bride without having received cards of her being “ at home,” should not have their visits returned, unless special reason exists to the contrary, such visit being an impolite intrusion.

TERMINATION OF THE WEDDING CEREMONIES.
THESE return visits having been paid, the happy pair drop their titles of bride and bridegroom, are for a short time styled the “ newly-married couple,” and then all goes on as if they had been married for twenty years.


Wednesday, 29 June 2016

The lace is one of the biggest mysteries.


The lace is one of the biggest mysteries.
It's an application of muslin couched onto machine made lace.
Lace like this was made in Carrickmacross, Ireland to make work for the poor after the Irish Potato Famine but similar lace was made both in Belgium and elsewhere between the invention of machine made net circa 1810 and later.
The family lace might be Irish but does not have the famous hand made Carrickmacross loop edging but a fine applied machine lace edging which make experts think it is of another origin and have dated it to about 1840 /1850 ish and possibly Continental, possibly even Brussels.
Do you remember my mothers cousin Jenny Brown nee Chesterman though J.N Vlielands the elders 2 sisters were lace makers although the census says French Knitters?
The census said they were from Brussels!
Gran believed it was worn for the first time at the Wedding of J.N. Vlieland and his wife Frances Elizabeth Samworth in 1852.
It is said pomegranate were a symbols of fertility in the Union of a couple.
At the time they were married it could have been used as a shawl or over a strew bonnet, but I am sure you will have fun researching all of this so I have just enclosed you some leads.


So another mysterie to solve ........Let us know if you know more .


wedding in 1860 on a porcelain plate 

Friday, 24 June 2016

silk and handpainted faces.

Today we go back to the embroidery.

One of the top people from the Royal School of Needlework at Hampton Court looked at it (not a photo but the actual embroidery) about ten years ago and the dates she thought would agree with what is in the blog .So 1800-1810.

At Hampton Court they also said it was the fashion of that time for English ladies to work such pictures as a pass time if they were lady's of fashion.

Sometimes bought in kit form and sometimes designed by themselves.

The lady said that she had never seen this design before or so well worked.

She did see this type of thing so very often as a woman draped over an urn to commemorate someone's death. Usually she did not like such things ,but she thought this one to be so well designed and worked she would make it the exception.

It is embroidered on silk with silks in seed and satin stitch but the faces are hand painted.

So we know more about the embroidery.

And now we have to find out who made it.Was it the Samworth family or was it the mother or sisters of Jerome Nicholas Vlieland.
We let you know if we find out more.




Thursday, 23 June 2016

Olive Hollingworth Stalisfield Vicarage

Like real detectives we are still on a  needlework hunt.
Maybe the needlework was in the vicarage before Jerome Nicholas Vlieland lived there.
So we searched the records for the previous reverend.
The Reverend Ollive Hollingworth was there from 1840-1858.
His name also written as Oliver or Ollive.
So we searched the internet to look for a connection.

Some newspaperclippings

The Bishop of London has presented the Rev. Olive Hollingworth, M.A., of this college, vicar of Stalisfield, near Faversham, the incumbency of Christchurch, Turnhamgreen.


HOLLINGWORTH— WOOLLS.- June 30, at S». Margaret's, Iver lit atli, Bucks, by the father of the bridegroom, Olive, oldest son of the Rev. Olive Hollingworth, incumbent o. Christ Church, Turnham- 0, to Miiiy Mm tlm, eldest daughter of Edward Woolls, solicitor

West London Observer London, England

27 Apr 1861 THURSDAY

Williams, and describe d himself as tailor, was charged before Mr. Ingham, with endeavouring to obtain money from the Rev. Olive Hollingworth, of Turnham Green, by false representations. The complainant stated that the prisoner came to him on the previous evening.

Ollive Hollingworth
mentioned in the record of Ollive Hollingworth and Mary Martha Woolls
Name Ollive Hollingworth
Spouse's Name Mary Martha Woolls
Event Date 30 Jun 1868
Event Place Iver Heath,Buckingham,England
Father's Name Ollive Hollingworth
Spouse's Father's Name Edward Woolls

Rev. Ollive Hollingworth
Born May 5, 1811 in Boxley, Kent, England
Husband of Frances Bain (Hough) Hollingworth — married January 25, 1838 in Porchester, Nottinghamshire, England
Father of Ollive Hollingworth, Mary Hollingworth, Frances Elizabeth Hollingworth, John Henry Hollingworth, Alice Holbrow Hollingworth, Charles Stuart Scott Hollingworth andFlorence Isabel (Hollingworth) Wilks
Died January 1875 in Battle, Sussex, United Kingdom

Stalisfield, St. Augustine's, Kent, England
Electoral Division
St. Augustine's division (East Kent)
In the Stalisfield graveyardbooks we find.
23. Catherine Annie Hollingsworth who died in infancy and Robert Graham Hollingsworth who died 20th February 1856, children of the Rev. Oliver HOLLINGSWORTH Vicar of this parish and Frances BAIN his wife.


Frances Bain Hollingworth formerly Hough
Born 1818 in Stonehouse, Devon, England
Daughter of [father unknown] and Frances Bain Tracey
Sister of Sarah Jane Hough, George Scott Hough and Mary Elizabeth Catherine Hough
Wife of Ollive Hollingworth — married January 25, 1838 in Porchester, Nottinghamshire, England
Mother of Ollive Hollingworth, Mary Hollingworth, Frances Elizabeth Hollingworth,John Henry Hollingworth, Alice Holbrow Hollingworth, Charles Stuart Scott Hollingworth and Florence Isabel (Hollingworth) Wilks
Died April 9, 1896 in Uxbridge, Middlesex, England

So we have some basic information but no French connection or needle work so far. .





Wednesday, 22 June 2016

needlework is gobelin

We decided we needed more expertise and send a mail to some very nice lady's who gather to discuss textile and costumes and asked what they could tell us about this needlework .
They replied:
The needlework is a gobelin -embroidered with loop stitches-..
The clothing and the cane hat indicates a timeperiod of 1800-1810.
It is probably made in southern France or northern Spain.
The shrubs are acanthus leaves.
The acanthus symbolizing :life with all the ordeals that have to be overcome.
The fishes symbolizing : plenitude and happiness.
The young couple is up to something........maybe a proposal.

This answer we received from the specialists Mister H.van Kampen of the textile group of the museum who looked at the pictures.We thank him a lot for that !!!!

 Gilly could add even more information .

One of the top people from the Royal School of Needlework at Hampton Court looked at it (not a photo but the actual embroidery) about ten years ago and the dates she thought would agree with what is in the blog .So 1800-1810.
At Hampton Court they also said it was the fashion of that time for English ladies to work such pictures as a pass time if they were lady's of fashion.
Sometimes bought in kit form and sometimes designed by themselves.
The lady said that she had never seen this design before or so well worked.
She did see this type of thing so very often as a woman draped over an urn to commemorate someone's death. Usually she did not like such things ,but she thought this one to be so well designed and worked she would make it the exception.

It is embroidered on silk with silks in seed and satin stitch but the faces are hand painted.
So we know more about the embroidery.
And now we have to find out who made it. Waas it a familymember of the Samworths or was it made Jerome Nicholas Vlieland ´s mother or sisters.
When we know more we let you know.
So we know a lot already but also came up with new questions .
Was this needlework already in the house ?
Was it bought abroad or at an auction?
Did one of the Samworth girls brought it back from their trip abroad?
Did Jerome Nicholas Vlieland buy it when he went to France in 1856?
Was it made by Frances Elisabeths Mother?
It is from 1800-1810 or is that just the pattern?

So we will go on and trying to find out even more.
















Sunday, 19 June 2016

Anna Mary Howitt

Anna Mary Howitt.
Mary Howitt (1799-1888)

Annie, born January 15, 1824, was the daughter and eldest child of the prolific writing team of William and Mary Howitt.
The couple translated German, French, and Scandinavian literature and wrote fiction, poetry, biographies, travel books, and works for children.
Young Annie grew up in a special household indeed. "Let us," Mary once wrote her sister, "accustom our children to elegant objects as far as our means permit."
William Wordsworth sent Annie copies of his children's poems for her approval when she -was only seven years old.
From 1840 until 1843 the family lived abroad in Germany because the Howitts considered Pestalozzi-inspired German educational methods superior to English models.
The precocious 15-year-old Annie illustrated Hymns and Fireside Verses (1839), one of her parents' most successful books.
Her adult friends included Dante Gabriel and Christina Rossetti, John Ruskin, George Eliot, Charles Dickens, and other prominent Victorian artistic and literary figures.'
In her early twenties Annie became involved with the influential group known as the Pre-Raphaelites. The Pre-Raphaelite "Brotherhood," founded by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, John Millais, and William Holman Hunt, rejected the formal and unimaginative style of the Royal Academy school of painting, where a common practice consisted of copying old masters.

In Hastings Barbara Leigh-Smith also met Anna Howitt and her children; Eliza Fox Bridell; Gertrude Jekyll; Marianne North, whose father was one of the two Hastings' MPs; Miss Bayley of 2 Holloway Place; and Ann Samworth and her children, who lived at Brooklands Cottage, Holloway place, Old London roadIn 1850 Bessie Parkes introduced Barbara to her cousin, the first woman physician, Dr. Elizabeth Blackwell. However, Barbara's cousin Florence Nightingale snubbed her Uncle Ben's illegitimate offspring.As young women of 21 and 23, Bessie and Barbara were, most unusually, allowed to go unchaperoned on a walking tour of Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, visiting Mary Howitt in Munich.
The three discussed women's inferior status and wanted to change it.
But men held all political power and would fight to preserve the system which served their interests so well.
The two did, however, indulge in a little personal liberation.
Female costume at the time was uncomfortable, impractical and restrictive.
They abandoned their corsets and shortened their skirts, prompting Barbara to pen the lines:

Oh! Isn't it jolly
To cast away folly
And cut all one's clothes a peg shorter
(A good many pegs)
And rejoice in one's legs
Like a free-minded Albion's daughter.

March 12, 2012, by H Cotterill
“Will you come into my parlour?” said the Spider to the Fly,

‘Tis the prettiest little parlour that ever you did spy;
So begins the famous children’s poem, ‘The Spider and the Fly’. This is just one of the many poems and stories written by the celebrated Victorian author Mary Howitt whose collection of family correspondence is held in Manuscripts and Special Collections.

The Howitts certainly encountered their fair share of ‘spiders’, with one such encounter leading to a 19th century case of identity theft. In a letter to her sister Anna, Mary Howitt describes how she and her husband William had befriended a young couple only to discover that the husband was writing begging letters in Mary’s name. He managed to collect several hundred pounds before the fraud was discovered and he disappeared.

The Howitts certainly encountered their fair share of ‘spiders’, with one such encounter leading to a 19th century case of identity theft. In a letter to her sister Anna, Mary Howitt describes how she and her husband William had befriended a young couple only to discover that the husband was writing begging letters in Mary’s name. He managed to collect several hundred pounds before the fraud was discovered and he disappeared.

The Howitt correspondence collection contains many such stories and personal anecdotes and offers a fascinating insight into the lives of a middle class family in the nineteenth century. Correspondents include Mary Howitt, her sisters Anna Harrison and Emma Alderson and Anna’s daughter Anna Mary. With the majority of the letters being sent to and from women the correspondence inevitably touches on domestic issues, including the raising of children, as well as on the role of women themselves. There are a fascinating series of letters written by Mary’s sister Emma Alderson. Emma emigrated to America with her husband in 1842, settling in Cincinatti Ohio. Emma wrote regularly to her family in England and her letters offer an insight into life in America in the decades immediately prior to the American Civil War. Other key themes in the letters include spiritualism and religion, health and horticulture. The letters also provide evidence about the literary careers of Mary and her husband William who also worked as a writer.

The image above shows an example of a crossed letter from the collection. Until the introduction of the Penny Post in 1840 the cost of posting was affected by the number of sheets of paper used. Using two sheets of paper doubled the cost. To avoid this people ‘crossed’ their letters, filling a sheet of paper and then turning the page at right angles to continue writing.

The catalogue to the Howitt correspondence collection is available to view online. The collection contains just over 1200 letters. Of these 1200 approximately 400 have been catalogued in full. The remaining 800 require further cataloguing work, to provide a summary of the letters’ contents, but are fully searchable by correspondent and

The catalogue to the Howitt correspondence collection is available to view online. The collection contains just over 1200 letters. Of these 1200 approximately 400 have been catalogued in full. The remaining 800 require further cataloguing work, to provide a summary of the letters’ contents, but are fully searchable by correspondent and date. The collection was purchased with help from the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Other material relating to the Howitts can be found elsewhere in the archive. The Briggs collection of Literary Papers and Correspondence from the Sutton Family contains a series of letters written by Mary and William Howitt and their daughter Margaret to William and Eliza Oldham nee Sutton. The Briggs collection is fully catalogued and the catalogue can be viewedonline. There is also a collection of books written by Mary and William Howitt held in Special Collections. These can be searched for using the library catalogue athttp://aleph.nottingham.ac.uk/F

All of the manuscripts and books mentioned above are available to view in the Manuscripts and Special collections reading room at King’s Meadow Campus.T

There is a lot written about Anna Maria Howitt.also in connection with the Leigh -Smith and Samworth girls.

Saturday, 18 June 2016

The detective and the needlework

First of all we have to look at the needlework.



facts
  • We see a sweet couple with fish under a tree.
  • We know it excisted already in 1877.
  • It was in the vicarage in Stalisfield owned by Jerome Nicholas Vlieland.
The we wonder if it was there could it be made by his wife .
His second wife was Frances Elisabeth Samworth.
Frances grew up as daughter of John Samworth and lived on Clive Dale farm and Brookland.
She and her sisters were friends with the Leigh-Smith children that lived nearby.
One of them was Barbara Leigh -Smith after her marriage Bodichon.
She painted a painting "cornfield after the storm" which was the cornfield of the Samworths as she wrote in a letter.
Another part of the Samworth garden is also painted .This time by Holman Hunt


He was a friend of the family and often stayed in the Leigh -Smith house together with Thomas Woolner

Buy Illustration to Thomas Woolner's 'My Beautiful Lady' Published in 'The Germ' 1850 (Engraving) Other
 and Dante Gabriel Rossetti
So could the needlework be situated in Hastings .
We know they found the fishmarket there very inspiring.
The Leigh -Smith and Samworth girls also went to Europe together  to study painting and art which was not very common in those days.
So is the needlework from France or Italy?

It is amazing how many interesting people the Samworth girls  have met when they were young .
They also met the Howitt girls .
So I have to find their paintings to see if there is something in it.

And al this research is just to find if we kind find the same kind of figures in their painting and if the clothes match the time in which they were painting.
So far the reasearch for today.

For now it seems different .
It is from 1800-1810 so it is much older.

The needlework is a gobelin ,embroidered with loop stitches.
The clothing and the cane hat indicates a timeperiod of 1800-1810.
It is probably made in southern France or northern Spain.
The shrubs are acanthus leaves.
The acanthus symbolizing :life with all the ordeals that have to be overcome.
The fishes symbolizing : plenitude and happiness.
The young couple is up to something........maybe a proposal.

Tuesday, 14 June 2016

Needlework fisherman

In the cataloque of the auction at the Stalisfield vicarage in 1877 we find a needlework of a fisherman.
Thanks to Gilly we can all admire it and search for more information.
An embroidered picture of a young fisherman dated about 1820 and possibly worked by Elizabeth Frances Samworth or one of her family


We see a sweet couple under a tree .

We do not know who they are or where they  from or how old it is .
But there must be a clue somewhere.
I am searching allready!
So let us know if you can tell us more .

thanks to "kap en Dek "
We know a lot more.
The needlework is a gobelin ,embroidered with loop stitches.
The clothing and the cane hat indicates a timeperiod of 1800-1810.
It is probably made in southern France or northern Spain.
The shrubs are acanthus leaves.
The acanthus symbolizing :life with all the ordeals that have to be overcome.
The fishes symbolizing : plenitude and happiness.
The young couple is up to something........maybe a proposal.

Sunday, 12 June 2016

The Queen's 90 years in 90 pictures



We always enjoy celebrating with the Royal Family.
So we will eat our own lunch today while watching lots of people eating in their Patrons Lunch in the Mall today on television.

Saturday, 4 June 2016

Exclusive

Today you can explore the roots of our famly by reading a glossy.
I think that if J.N.Vlieland was still alive today,he would have had an interview or advertise himself as teacher of languages  in this magazine .


Thursday, 2 June 2016

Haco Dobson

I have a Dutch newspaper article of March 25th 1918.
It says that at Zandvoort beach in The Netherlands the body was found of probably a British sailor.
On his belt is the name H. Dobson and also 3161.
I also have a list with casualties who were transported to Noordwijk, for reburial at a CWGC/IWGC cemetery.
One of them is a person who was transported from Zandvoort Cemetery. His name is W.E. Dobson and the list also shows R.N. 3161.
This W.E. Dobson was first buried in Zandvoort Cemetery on March 27 1918.
So H. and W.E. Dobson are the same.

The only problem is that on Noordwijk Cemetery there is no grave with the name Dobson.
And the find a grave site of CWGC does not show a Dobson buried in The Netherlands.

My question: who is Dobson, W.E. or H., 3161?

This was the question Mark Sijlmans asked and solved .
After almost a 100 year .It is now confirmed that it is Haco Dobson who is buried in Noordwijk.

On the fifth of July there will be a special ceremony in which a new tomstone with his name will be placed at the cemetery in Noordwijk
The man who was buried beside him was William Edward Parker .
The initials were given to H.Dobson so finally the research had a happy ending 

Wednesday, 1 June 2016

St Magnus church Kirkwall

David Cameron, Nicola Sturgeon and Princess Anne have joined descendants of those who fought at the battle of Jutland for a centenary service to remember the thousands who died in the largest naval battle of the first world war.

British and German military bands played and crowds lined the street as the British prime minister arrived at St Magnus Cathedral on Orkney, with Scotland’s first minister.

It is 100 years to the day since British and German ships engaged in a 36-hour conflict off the coast of Denmark, that led to devastating losses and changed the course of the war.

St.Magnuscathedral Kirkwall Orkney in 2012  when we there .




Same pipers as yesterday at the Remembrance of the battle of Jutland.